FAQ

Color Types

Semi-Permanent, Demi-Permanent, & Temporary Hair Color: What’s the Difference?

To translate what the salon stylist speaking in the hair salon, we need some background knowledge for hair color type.  The biggest difference between semi and demi is permanency. Though both are temporary, demi lasts 12 to 24 shampoos, and semi lasts 4 to 12.

Permanent Hair Color

Definition: Permanent hair color does what the name says—it permanently changes the color of your hair.

Does: When mixed with a developer, permanent hair dye opens the cuticles that comprise the surface of the hair shaft and delivers dye deep inside. The cuticle then reseals, preventing the color from escaping.

Doesn’t do: Permanent hair color will not fade away gradually so you will always see a difference between the new growth and the colored hair.

How it’s used: Permanent color is used to lighten or darken hair; change the color of hair and cover grey.

How long it lasts: Permanent hair color lasts indefinitely because it permanently alters the color structure of the hair.

Demi-Permanent Hair Color

Definition: Demi-permanent hair color is a low-ammonia formula that is generally mixed with a low-volume developer.

Does: Demi-permanent hair dye gently opens the surface cuticle of the hair and allows dye to penetrate slightly into the hair shaft. The formulas are sheer. Demi-permanents can darken the hair or change the tone. They also add shine.

Doesn’t do: Demi-permanent color formulas will not lift or lighten the hair or cover grey.

How it’s used: Demi-permanent hair color can be used to enhance natural hair color; deposit color over blonde or lightened hair; blend (but not cover) grey; refresh faded hair color; darken or lowlight the hair; correct hair color that has gone off-tone (turned brassy or ashy, for example) and blend highlights. A clear demi-permanent can also add shine and restore the luster of dull, damaged hair. Demi-permanent color is a great option if you haven’t had hair color before, since it will fade gradually without damaging your hair.

How long it lasts: Depending upon the health and porosity of the hair demi-permanent hair color lasts between 12 and 24 shampoos before it fades gradually.

Semi-Permanent Hair Color

Definition: Semi-permanent hair color is a gentle blend that contains no ammonia and does not need to be mixed with a developer. Because of this, it may also be referred to as a direct dye.

Does: Semis deposit color onto the surface of the hair, functioning as a sheer coating. Unlike permanent or demi-permanent hair color, semi-permanent color does not penetrate the hair shaft. It alters the tone of the hair.

Doesn’t do: Semi-permanent hair dye will not lighten your hair, cover grey or change your hair color.

How it’s used: Semi-permanent hair color can be used to deposit color over blonde or lightened hair; to blend (but not cover) grey; to refresh faded hair color; to correct hair color that has gone off-tone (turned brassy or ashy, for example) and to blend highlights with base hair color. A clear semi-permanent can also add shine and restore the luster of dull, damaged hair. Semi-permanent color may also be found in shampoos, conditioners and masks that can be used to maintain the tone of hair between salon visits.

How long it lasts: Depending upon the health and porosity of the hair, semi-permanent color can last anywhere between four and 12 shampoos before gradually fading.

Temporary Hair Color

What it is: Temporary hair color changes the hair color instantly. It’s often found in a powder, chalk or spray form.

Does: Temporary hair dye coats the hair with color.

Doesn’t do: It will not lighten, darken or alter the actual hair color in any way.

How it’s used: Temporary hair color can mask regrowth, coat grey hair, add sections or panels of color or be used to create fun designs or stencils in the hair.

How long it lasts: Temporary color washes out of hair with one shampoo.



How to choose your hair developer.

An important part of coloring your hair yourself is figuring out what volume developer you should use. Developer, also known as activator or even peroxide for short, is mixed with bleach or dye to lighten or color hair. It’s a creamy product that contains hydrogen peroxide, and the amount of hydrogen peroxide is what determines developer volume.

Developer helps the color penetrate the hair shaft and become permanent. Hydrogen peroxide developer lifts the cuticle layer of the hair and depending on the strength of the activator the cuticle will lift more or less.

Hair developer levels refer to their oxidizing potential, or how much hydrogen peroxide they have. Most bleach and hair color formulas use developer at either 10, 20, 30 or in some cases 40.


Choose developer strength according to how many levels you need to lift.

Use 20 Vol developer for 1-2 levels, 30 Vol for 2-3 levels & 40 Vol for 3 levels. If you are going more than 3 levels lighter, you will need to use bleach first. Stick to the recommended color and developer mix rules.

10 Volume Developer
If you are applying permanent, no-lift hair color. It won’t lift your base hair color significantly, so you should use it when you want to add a tone or tint to the hair, but keeping it at the same color level. Many toners work with 10 vol developer as it’s the least damaging to the hair and all you want is to deposit a tone to cancel unwanted color in your hair. 10 volume developer is only used to open the hair cuticle layer so the color molecules can deposit in the cortex for long term results.

20 Volume Developer
When you want to achieve a lift of one o two levels of hair color. If you have more than 50% grey hair you will need to use 20 volume developer for 100% gray coverage with permanent hair dye. Less than that and you may be able to get away with 10 volume developer, and your grey hair will look like highlights.

You can use 20 volume developer with bleach to lighten hair that is naturally blonde in a more gentle fashion.

30 Volume Developer
30 volume developer allows you to lighten the hair while coloring by two or three levels, and allows more pigment to embed into the hair shaft. If your hair is not very damaged and you want a lighter and more long-lasting color, 30 volume developer can be a great option. If your hair is low porosity hair you may find that 30 volume developer works better as your hair is naturally more resistant to color.

40 Volume Developer
When you are looking to create highlights without bleach using high-lift hair color. This is because it will lift your hair up to four shades. If you are bleaching dark brown or black hair you may also need to use 40 volume developer, but keep in mind that this will be the most damaging for hair. It has 12% peroxide, and that can cause burns on sensitive scalps.

If you are bleaching your hair at home it is much better and safer to do several rounds of bleaching with 30 or even 20 volume developer, and use loads of conditioning treatments and protein builders in between.