Color Kinds
Semi-Permanent, Demi-Permanent, & Temporary Hair Color: What’s the Difference?
To translate what the salon stylist speaking in the hair salon, we need some background knowledge for hair color type. The biggest difference between semi and demi is permanency. Though both are temporary, demi lasts 12 to 24 shampoos, and semi lasts 4 to 12.
Permanent Hair Color
Definition: Permanent hair color does what the name says—it permanently changes the color of your hair.
Does: When mixed with a developer, permanent hair dye opens the cuticles that comprise the surface of the hair shaft and delivers dye deep inside. The cuticle then reseals, preventing the color from escaping.
Doesn’t do: Permanent hair color will not fade away gradually so you will always see a difference between the new growth and the colored hair.
How it’s used: Permanent color is used to lighten or darken hair; change the color of hair and cover grey.
How long it lasts: Permanent hair color lasts indefinitely because it permanently alters the color structure of the hair.
Demi-Permanent Hair Color
Definition: Demi-permanent hair color is a low-ammonia formula that is generally mixed with a low-volume developer.
Does: Demi-permanent hair dye gently opens the surface cuticle of the hair and allows dye to penetrate slightly into the hair shaft. The formulas are sheer. Demi-permanents can darken the hair or change the tone. They also add shine.
Doesn’t do: Demi-permanent color formulas will not lift or lighten the hair or cover grey.
How it’s used: Demi-permanent hair color can be used to enhance natural hair color; deposit color over blonde or lightened hair; blend (but not cover) grey; refresh faded hair color; darken or lowlight the hair; correct hair color that has gone off-tone (turned brassy or ashy, for example) and blend highlights. A clear demi-permanent can also add shine and restore the luster of dull, damaged hair. Demi-permanent color is a great option if you haven’t had hair color before, since it will fade gradually without damaging your hair.
How long it lasts: Depending upon the health and porosity of the hair demi-permanent hair color lasts between 12 and 24 shampoos before it fades gradually.
Semi-Permanent Hair Color
Definition: Semi-permanent hair color is a gentle blend that contains no ammonia and does not need to be mixed with a developer. Because of this, it may also be referred to as a direct dye.
Does: Semis deposit color onto the surface of the hair, functioning as a sheer coating. Unlike permanent or demi-permanent hair color, semi-permanent color does not penetrate the hair shaft. It alters the tone of the hair.
Doesn’t do: Semi-permanent hair dye will not lighten your hair, cover grey or change your hair color.
How it’s used: Semi-permanent hair color can be used to deposit color over blonde or lightened hair; to blend (but not cover) grey; to refresh faded hair color; to correct hair color that has gone off-tone (turned brassy or ashy, for example) and to blend highlights with base hair color. A clear semi-permanent can also add shine and restore the luster of dull, damaged hair. Semi-permanent color may also be found in shampoos, conditioners and masks that can be used to maintain the tone of hair between salon visits.
How long it lasts: Depending upon the health and porosity of the hair, semi-permanent color can last anywhere between four and 12 shampoos before gradually fading.
Temporary Hair Color
What it is: Temporary hair color changes the hair color instantly. It’s often found in a powder, chalk or spray form.
Does: Temporary hair dye coats the hair with color.
Doesn’t do: It will not lighten, darken or alter the actual hair color in any way.
How it’s used: Temporary hair color can mask regrowth, coat grey hair, add sections or panels of color or be used to create fun designs or stencils in the hair.
How long it lasts: Temporary color washes out of hair with one shampoo.